Genuine Mazda B2000 Fuel Pump

Mazda B2000 Fuel Pump Parts and Q&A

• Fuel Pump
  FE85-13-350A
  Q: How to test, remove, and install Mechanical fuel pumps on Mazda B2000?

  A:

  Additionally, all models of the year 1986 are equipped with a mechanically driven fuel pump on the left-hand side of the cylinder head which is driven by the camshaft. In the case of the 2,184cc 2,184cc 2000 1987-88 car with manual transmission, the fuel pump is placed more on the right side of the cylinder head and is also cam driven. In order to perform a pressure test, initially disconnect the pump-to-carburetor hose at the carburetor and one connects pressure gauge. Then unhook the fuel return hose off the pump and insert the pump return and the return port on the carburetor. Turn the engine on and idle with gauging the pressure that must not be below 3.9 to 4.4 psi; in case it is not within the required range, the pump is to be changed. To remove and install, disconnect outlet, inlet and return hose at the pump. Next, dismount and take off the pump and the insulator, which throws away the gaskets. The installation is in the inverted sequence of the removal, with the allowance of new gaskets covered with sealer.
• Fuel Pump
  AM16-13-ZE0
  Q: How to release the fuel system pressure and test the fuel pump in Gasoline engine on Mazda B2000?

  A:

  Deactivate the fuel system pressure, being careful not to smoke or have any source of ignition because the gasoline vapours are volatile. Unplug and disconnect the fuel supply hose of the engine fuel line assembly, and then one puts fuel system testers between the fuel hose and the fuel line assembly. Unplug the harness connector of the Auto Shutdown Relay and connect 12 volts to the terminal marked number 3 to turn on the fuel pump and pressurize the system. When the gauge displays 330 Kpa +/-14 Kpa (48 psi +/-2 psi), the pressure is correct, otherwise, record the pressure and resume testing. Disconnect jumper wire and insert the tester in the fuel line between the Fuel Tank and the fuel filter. In case the pressure is lower than specification, repeat the 12 volts, and in case the pressure rises by 5 psi or above, change the fuel filter. In the case of no change, squeeze the return hose to verify whether there is an increase in the pressure and this will mean that the pressure regulator needs to be replaced though in the case of no change the problem could be a plugged pump filter sock or failed fuel pump. In case of pressure exceeding specification, disconnect the fuel return line hose on the chassis line at the fuel tank and connect a 3-foot length of fuel hose to a gasoline container to hold return fuel which will then undergo another pressure check. Should the pressure at this time be right, remove the kinking of the in-tank return hose and replace the fuel pump assembly in case the in-tank reservoir check valve or aspirator jet is blocked. In case of high pressure, unscrew the fuel return hose off the fuel return line and then attach a suitable hose in place of the fuel return line and insert the other end to a container to redo the pressure test, in case pressure is again high then check the fuel return line whether it is restricted or not, or replace the fuel pressure regulator otherwise it does not indicate any changes. To change the fuel pump, take out the fuel tank out of the car, remove the lock ring by ensuring that it is not tapped clockwise with a screwdriver and then ensure the assembly of the fuel pump comes out. Loosen the fuel pump in the tank to reveal the connection of the return line hose, break the connection of the fuel fitting and take the pump assembly together with the o-ring seal off. Installation requires cleaning the pump seal area of the tank followed by a new o-ring seal, install a new inlet seal and filter to the suction tube, attach the reservoir hose and press together the fittings until they fit. Fit the fuel pump in the tank, screw the locking ring clockwise and finally install the fuel tank back in the car.