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Genuine Mazda 323 Fuel Pump
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For the most accurate results, select vehicle by your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number).
4 Fuel Pumps found
Mazda 323 Fuel Pump Part Number: B3E7-13-35ZB
Mazda 323 Fuel Pump Part Number: B630-13-350C
Mazda 323 Fuel Pump Part Number: BP02-13-35ZD
Mazda 323 Fuel Pump Part Number: E5F7-13-350C
Mazda 323 Fuel Pump
The Mazda 323 Fuel Pump keeps the engine of the compact alive by moving the gasoline in the tank to the carburetor or fuel injectors at the pressure they require in order to start smoothly and maintain a constant supply of power. Early Mazda models powered by carbureted engines applied a mechanical pump that was joined to the engine block, where the camshaft arm pulled fuel each time it rotated, creating a low pressure of six to fifteen psi, which was ideal to fill the float bowl of the carburetor. When the engine moved to fuel injection, Mazda substituted that mechanical part with an in-tank electric Fuel Pump, which revolves an impeller, forming much higher pressure of approximately forty to sixty psi to allow injectors to spray fuel precisely at the time required by the electronic control unit. The electric design, being submerged, also means that the surrounding fuel cools the motor and dampens the noise; a built-in sending unit also keeps the dashboard gauge updated. Performance fans ought to learn that pump capacity is measured in gallons or liters per hour, and the selection of one is made by balancing projected horsepower against formulas of 0.5 pounds of fuel per horsepower for naturally aspirated engines or 0.75 pounds per horsepower for boosted. Whatever kind of second-generation 323 you have, both types have the same fundamental assignment; the mechanical type is easy to use and cam powered, while the electric Fuel Pump provides higher pressure, in-built sensors, and ECU control, which give current Mazda engines cleaner combustion and reduced emissions.
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Mazda 323 Fuel Pump Parts and Q&A
- Q: How to remove and replace a fuel pump on Mazda 323?A:Take off the fuel tank cap and ventilate the fuel system. Take off the cable on the negative terminal of the battery. Take out the screws and remove the cover to take out the fuel pump access cover. Unplug electric connector and remove the wire and the terminal nut that attaches to the top of the fuel pump. The step is to disconnect any fuel feeds and fuel return hoses to the pump, however, on models after 1999, some of the fuel lines are made of plastic and have quick-disconnect fittings, which need to be pushed together to release. Unscrew the retaining screws of the fuel pump and slowly pull the fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank at an angle in order not to tear up the inlet screen or the float arm. Loose the electrical connector and place the hose clamp out of the pump fitting. Unscrew the band that connects the pump to the bracket and remove the bracket at the bottom of the pump with the rubber mount and disassemble the fuel pump. Removethe sock filter at the bottom of the pump and examine it to see whether dirty or clean; change it in case dirty. Installation is the opposite of removing and it is necessary to install a new O-ring set at the hose connection and a new tank seal. Install the fuel pump to the bracket and set the pump down to fit firmly against the pad on the bottom of the bracket, and place the hose clamps.
- Q: How to check the fuel pump operation and perform related diagnostics on Mazda 323?A:The fuel pump should be examined by connecting the diagnostic connector F/P and GND with a jumper wire and by removing the fuel filler cap and the ignition switch to ON, but without switching on the engine to enable the fuel pump to operate. Then, hear the sound of fuel pump in the Fuel Tank and then close the jumper wire by closing the test connector cap and shutting off the ignition switch. In case the fuel pump failed to operate, check the voltage across the fuel pump connector 8/P-ground, and should be full battery voltage. Assuming that the voltage is incorrect, verify EFI 30-amp fuse and circuit opening/fuel pump relays. When relay tests out, check continuity at fuel pump connector terminals 8/P and B; in case of no continuity, check ground circuit of pump and repair it or replace the fuel pump in case it has no continuity. Once again, connect the cable to the battery. To measure the fuel pressure, it is necessary to fit a fuel pressure gauge into the main fuel hose between the fuel filter and the engine via a T-fitting, energize the fuel pump and compare the readings with the defined pressures. When the pressure is high, look at whether there is a restricted fuel return line, when the pressure is low pinch the fuel return line and measure the change of the pressure. Turn on the engine and test the fuel pressure at idle, and make sure it is within specifications. Once the engine is stopped, then ensure that the fuel pressure maintains a pressure greater than the minimum system hold pressure within five minutes. To check fuel pressure regulator, unscrew the pressure regulator vacuum hose, place vacuum and watch the fuel pressure gauge, it is expected to drop with increase in vacuum. Reconnect the vacuum hose and measure the fuel pressure at idle and make sure that it rises upon hose removal. When the fuel pressure is low pinch fuel return line and check the gauge, when pressure rise is not seen, then the fault can be that the fuel pump is faulty. In case of excessive pressure, release it, examine the possibility of a clog in the fuel return pipe, and change the regulator in case of need. Pull the fuel system, take off the fuel pressure gauge and look after starting the engine. To check the EFI main relay, circuit opening relay, fuel pump relay, battery voltage at the EFI main relay and circuit opening relay should be tested and the correct voltage across the terminals should be ensured. Test the relays: Continuity and resistance between the required terminals, use battery voltage when necessary, and replace faulty relays.
