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Genuine Mazda 323 Oil Pump

Oil Fluid Pump
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2 Oil Pumps found

  • Mazda 323 Oil Pump - B660-14-100E
    Diagram for Mazda 323 Oil Pump - B660-14-100E
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    Mazda 323 Oil Pump Part Number: B660-14-100E

    $278.64 MSRP: $371.58
    You Save: $92.94 (26%)
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Pump, Oil
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 1988-1989 Mazda 323 | GT, GTX | 4 Cyl 1.6 L GAS
  • Mazda 323 Oil Pump - B63014100F
    Diagram for Mazda 323 Oil Pump - B63014100F
    View related parts
    Product Specifications
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 1991, 1986 Mazda 323 | Base, SE | 4 Cyl 1.6 L GAS

Mazda 323 Oil Pump

Mazda 323 Oil Pump ensures that the engine components are immersed in pressurized lubricant to keep heat and friction in check during driving. Despite being robust, it must be checked or changed when engine rebuilds are done, and housings, gears, and clearances should be inspected to ensure pressure does not leak out. Each version draws the oil up through the mesh pickup, forces it through the filter, and directs it to bearings, pistons, and camshafts, while a spring-loaded relief valve spills excess pressure. All Mazda 323 generations have employed crank-driven designs based on three major styles. Direct drive Oil Pump units are designed so that the pump body is wrapped around the crank nose for compact packaging; gear-drive and chain-drive Oil Pump assemblies are mounted next to the crank and turn on meshed gears or a small series of sprockets; and crank-mount pumps have a hex-ended shaft connecting distributor and pump, a location that should be checked for rounding. Most of them are internally-powered with strong spur gears, though some later Mazda units use smoother trochoid rotors, both to achieve the usual target of about 10 psi at 1000 RPM. A threaded pressure switch may turn on a dash warning, and a sending unit may drive a gauge to allow the driver to observe an increase in pressure with increasing engine speed. To maintain the presence of a lubricating film, high-performance constructions with greater bearing clearances tend to use a larger-volume pump. Frequent changes of oil and filters can make this Mazda system reliable over several years.

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Mazda 323 Oil Pump Parts and Q&A

  • Q: Can the front oil seal be replaced without removing the oil pump on Mazda 323?
    A:
    In case front oil seal is to be changed, but oil pump is not to be removed, nor to be inspected, repaired or changed, the front oil seal may be changed without the removal of the oil pump. Start by taking out the front cover which carries the oil pump assembly and putting it on a work bench, noting the position the oil seal is in the bore. A seal removal tool or a screwdriver wrapped in a rag should be used to remove the oil seal, being careful not to scratch the housing bore. Then, loosen the screws to separate the oil pump cover and the front cover/oil pump housing and check the latter to see whether it is distorted or damaged. The oil pressure relief valve is removed with attention to the parts direction and the inner and outer rotors of the oil pump were pulled out of the housing. Install the rotors back into the oil pump housing and the clearances between the rotors and the pump housing, the inner rotor-to-outer rotor tip clearance and the clearance between the outer rotor and the body. Measure the length of the oil pressure relief spring and change it in case of need. Reassemble on clean and dry surfaces of the pump housing. Apply a small amount of engine assembly lubricant or clean engine oil on the outer rim of a new oil seal, and make sure that this new seal is installed firmly into position using either a socket or a short length of large diameter pipe, making sure that it is fitted in position and to the same depth as the old one. Put on engine assembly lubricant on the seal lip area touching crankshaft. Clean engine oil: oil pressure relief valve piston should be sprayed with clean engine oil and the components of the valve reinstalled with the plug tightened to the desired torque. The rotor set should be lubricated with clean engine oil and the rotors then re-fitted and the pump should be primed by packing the pump cavities with petroleum jelly. Fix the cover and screw the screws to the required tightness. Removal of the Oil Pan is recommended and at the end of the oil pick-up tube, the screen should be examined to make sure that there is no debris that may clog it and cleaned or replaced accordingly. Last but not least is to install the front cover, re-fit the rest of the parts in the reverse order in which they were removed, put the oil and ensure that the engine has started and that there is oil pressure and no leaks.

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