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Genuine Mazda 323 Clutch Master Cylinder
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2 Clutch Master Cylinders found
Mazda 323 Master Cylinder Part Number: BL87-41-990
$160.48 MSRP: $214.01You Save: $53.53 (26%)Ships in 1-2 Business Days
Mazda 323 Master Cylinder Part Number: BR70-41-990A
$182.70 MSRP: $243.64You Save: $60.94 (26%)Ships in 1-2 Business Days
Mazda 323 Clutch Master Cylinder
The Mazda 323 Clutch Master Cylinder is the main component of the hydraulic circuit of the manual transmission, which transforms every depression of the driver's left foot into the clean separation between engine force and the gearbox. Connected directly to the clutch pedal, its inner piston forces fluid down a slim bore to the slave cylinder where the generated pressure causes the release fork to pop free the clutch disc from the moving flywheel and enables the transmission of the gears. The 323 nameplate was produced in a strong, successful long run, during which Mazda did not introduce cable or dual bore versions, so the simple operating design was the same as the first carbureted hatchbacks on one side and the second fuel-injected sedans on the other. Since the system relies on a closed hydraulic circuit, a minor leakage or air pockets will cause a drop in pressure, resulting in a softened pedal, inability to choose the gears, or the pedal may not come back at all. Frequent checking of the fluid level and seal condition prevents these symptoms and keeps the sharp feeling of shifting that drivers desire. In case the component is completely broken, the pressure will not get to the slave cylinder and the clutch might remain connected, causing the car to stall in first gear. In brief, the Clutch Master Cylinder is small, but the impact of the device in any Mazda manual gearbox is massive. Maintaining the Mazda Clutch Master Cylinder in excellent condition therefore ensures that changes of gears are made accurately.
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Mazda 323 Clutch Master Cylinder Parts and Q&A
- Q: What steps should you take before rebuilding or replacing the Clutch Master Cylinder on Mazda 323?A:Prior to commencing this process, check with local part stores and dealer service departments in regards to the purchase of a rebuild kit or a new master cylinder because the availability and pricing of the required parts may determine which option to choose between rebuilding or replacing the cylinder. In case of a decision of rebuilding the cylinder, examine the bore. Unplug the negative cable and then the positive cable in the battery with the right activation code of any anti-theft system before disconnection. Lift battery hold-down clamp, battery cover and battery itself. Take out the bolt fastening the diagnosis connector and put it aside. At the clutch master cylinder, detach clamp and reservoir fluid hose, and inserted the hose to store fluid eliminating the loss of fluid and rags would be required. Use a flare-nut wrench to disconnect the hydraulic line at the clutch master cylinder. Under the dash, loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder to the firewall and then delicately take out the master cylinder so as not to spill the fluid. Incidentally, turn the master cylinder to drain the trapped fluid and hold the cylinder in a vise with the piston end facing upwards. Using a Phillips screwdriver, push the piston downwards and with snap-ring pliers, loosen the snap-ring, being careful not to scratch the push rod contact surface. Use a block of wood to tap the master cylinder and force out the piston, spacer, primary cup and spring. Take off the seal of the piston and examine the bore deeply, looking in scratches or ridges; when the surface is not smooth the master cylinder has to be changed. In case of rebuilding, assemble the new parts of the rebuild kit, washing all parts that can be used with brake cleaner or clean brake fluid, and not with petroleum based solvents. Install a new seal with seal lips turned out of the push rod end onto the piston, lubricate the bore, spring, primary cup, spacer and piston using new brake fluid and slowly insert them into the cylinder bore. Return the cylinder to the vise, press the piston down, and add a new snap-ring. Apply a dollop of grease on the end of the push rod, slide the master cylnder on the push rod against the firewall, and for the mounting nuts, use your fingers to loosely screw them in place. Attach the hydraulic line to the master cylinder making sure not to cross thread the fitting and then screw the mounting nut and hydraulic line fitting in place. Install the reservoir hose back to the master cylinder, install the diagnosis connector and battery, refill the clutch/brake fluid reservoir with brake fluid which meets the requirements of DOT 3 and bleed the clutch system. Lastly, test the free play and height of a clutch pedal.
