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Genuine Mazda 323 Clutch Slave Cylinder
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2 Clutch Slave Cylinders found
Mazda 323 Slave Cylinder Part Number: B455-41-920A
Mazda 323 Slave Cylinder Part Number: B181-41-920
Mazda 323 Clutch Slave Cylinder
The Mazda 323 Clutch Slave Cylinder converts hydraulic pressure in the clutch master cylinder into the push that moves the clutch plates apart smoothly, allowing the car to change gears without any grinding. The Clutch Slave Cylinder is mounted on the transmission housing, and it responds to pressure occurring in the brake fluid whenever the pedal is pressed; the internal piston slides away, the pushrod contacts the release fork, and the clutch disengages, allowing power to momentarily cease flowing to the gearbox. Over the years these models have been based on two simple layouts, either a direct mount unit that screws into the bell housing or a bracket mounted one positioned slightly offset, but with the same task to perform, and the distance of pedal travel to a release is determined by the bore size. Clean fluid is critical, since any air or dampness may lead to a soft pedal and the inability of the pedal to travel all the way, alerting the driver that the Clutch Slave Cylinder or the hoses connecting it may be leaking. The surrounding hydraulic system has a twin circuit reservoir with the brakes, so there is minimal backup in the event of a circuit pressure failure, though the stopping distances and pedal feel will be increased until the faulty component is replaced. Visual checks that are regularly recommended in Mazda manuals, such as checking for seepage around the boot and maintaining a constant fluid level, can ensure that owners of Mazda cars maintain a clean and sharp gear shift in their reliable Mazda 323 cars.
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Mazda 323 Clutch Slave Cylinder Parts and Q&A
- Q: What steps should be taken before rebuilding or replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder on Mazda 323?A:Prior to this procedure, contact local parts stores and dealer service departments regarding the sale of a rebuild kit or a new clutch slave cylinder since the parts required to perform this procedure may be available and costly, and this may determine whether the cylinder is rebuilt or the part is replaced by a new one. In case they decide to rebuild the cylinder, check the bore. Now disconnect the negative cable to the battery, and now ensure that you use the correct activation code to the stereo provided it has an anti-theft system. Lift the car and place it on jack stands. Then break the hydraulic line at the clutch slave cylinder with a flare-nut wrench to avoid rounding off the fitting, and provision of a small can and rags to dispose of any spilled fluid, which can then be capped with the fluid line. Unscrew clutch slave cylinder mounting bolts and the clutch slave cylinder itself. In the case of overhaul, push rod and boots have to be removed and the cylinder has to be hit on a block of wood in order to eject the piston and the seal after which the spring inside the cylinder should be removed. Pay due attention to the bore for deep scratches, score marks, and ridges, and a general feel of the bore, and all imperfections will require a new clutch slave cylinder to be installed. Install the components with a good supply of new brake fluid to lubricate by fitting the new components using the new parts in the rebuild kit and recording the direction in which the spring and seal are installed. To install, put the clutch slave cylinder in the clutch housing and make sure the push rod gets into the release fork pocket before you connect and tighten the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder. Pour brake fluid into the Clutch Master Cylinder and bleed the system then make sure to lower the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery cable.
