In order to remove transaxle, it is important to first of all raise up the vehicle and secure it on jackstands. In the case of models which are equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the clutch cover and clutch disc, and may wish to check or replace the clutch parts and the pilot bearing. Make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft so that they can be positioned appropriately later on; this may also be made through the opening at the oil pan/transaxle housing area should one want. Then loosen the bolts that hold the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft, with a screwdriver to jam the flywheel as the crankshaft rotates. Cautiously remove the flywheel/driveplate and on the automatic transaxle, the driveplate backing plate and adapter also, remembering position of reinstallation. Hold the flywheel and snipe out the final bolt, then wipe the flywheel with a rag to get off grease and oil and inspect it checking for cracks, rivet grooves, burned, and score. Emery cloth can counter light scoring and broken and cracked teeth in ring gear should be examined. The flywheel should be placed on a flat surface to ensure it is not warped, and in case of doubt, they should be resurfaced at an auto machine shop. Clean and wipe off flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft mating surfaces, and remove crankshaft rear seal(s), which may be leaking, re-install. To install it, clean off any thread sealant that can be found in hole of crankshaft flywheel bolts and bolts and replace the bolts which cannot be cleansed completely. Install the flywheel or adapter, driveplate, and backing plate at the crankshaft and ensure they are aligned with the marks left in the process of removal. Use thread sealant to coat the threads of all except new bolts, and plunge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to help keep them stationary during tightening of the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to the final tightening in three or four steps. The rest of the installation is in the opposite sequence of the removal.