Elevate the vehicle and securely support it using jack stands. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the lock nut until it is at the top of the stud, which will cover the threads. Then, disconnect the idler arm from the center link. Lift the rubber boot and fit the fork of a puller, tightening the bolt until it bears tightly against the stud. Strike the head of the puller bolt with a hammer to loosen the puller if necessary, tighten the puller bolt a quarter turn and hit again. Take out the two nuts securing the idler arm to the inner frame rail, and then remove the idler arm assembly from under the vehicle. In order to disassemble, place the assembly in a vise and remove the cotter pin, locknut and washer. Before separating the idler arm from the bracket, make a mark on the arm and bracket for reinstallation, then remove the two plastic bushings from the ends. Inspect the bushings for any signs of wear; if found, replace them. Replace the idler arm as a unit if the ball joint at the end of the idler arm is loose or damaged. When installing a new idler arm, verify that the idler arm alignment mark is on the same part of the new arm. Use lithium-based grease on the bushings before installing the bushings in the bracket. Then pack the idler arm shaft with grease where it runs through the bracket. Put the greased idler arm into the bracket, aligning the marks made during disassembly, and then install the washer and lock nut. Tighten the lock nut until snug. When possible, using a spring scale, check the lock nut's adjustment on the idler arm for a revolving torque of 4.4 to 13.2 lb (2 to 6 kg). Once the new cotter pin has been installed, attach the idler arm assembly to the inside of the rail and tighten the nuts to 32-40 ft-lb (4.4-5.5 m-kg). Attach the idler arm to the center link. Tighten the lock nut to 18 to 25 ft-lb (2.5 to 3.5 m-kg). Install another new cotter pin. To conclude, you should drop the vehicle down and test drive it.