Lift the front portion of the vehicle, and hold the vehicle up using stands after which the front wheel is removed. Take off the tie-rod of the knuckle arm with a puller that may be a usual gear puller. Use the cotter pin to take out and loosen the lock nut until it is sitting on the top of the stud, and is over the threads. Slide the rubber bushing down so that the jaws of the puller can slide in-between the rubber and the knuckle arm and then screw the puller bolt tight until the tie-rod loosens and may need a hammer to loosen it. Bend and loosen the cotter-pin in the locknut, and take the tie-rod end and the lockut. Install: Removal Disconnect the tie-rod to the center link using a gear puller by removing the cotter pin and parting the tie-rod. Raise the tie-rod out of the vehicle. When changing the tie-rod ends, record the length of the tie-rod assembly between the two lock nuts and make a note of the positions of the components as they will be positioned back in place. To loosen the tie-rod ends, loosen the lock nuts at the middle threaded area and unscrew the ends with two wrenches. Install the new tie-rod ends following the previously clearance distances with the new tie-rod end being turned in the same direction as the old ones. Install the tie-rod assembly on the center link and knuckle arm and loosen the lock nuts to a torque of 22 to 33 ft-lb, aligning the cotter pin hole with one of the grooves in the castellated nut and fitting new split pins. Lastly, fit the wheel(s) and lower the car to the ground with the exception of the fact that each time the tie-rod or ball joint is changed, the toe-in should be reset to achieve the correct front alignment geometry.