Prior to initiating this process, contact local parts stores and dealer service departments with regards to the acquisition of a rebuild kit or a new clutch slave cylinder since the availability of the parts required and their cost could determine whether the cylinder is rebuilt or the purchase of a new one. In case you want to re-assemble the cylinder, check the bore prior to buying parts. Lift the hood of the car and seat it on jackstands. Disassemble the metal hydraulic line at the threaded fitting with a flare nut wrench (where present) to ensure that the fitting is not rounded off, and then plug the flexible hose to avoid leakage of fluid. Unhook the other end of the metal line with the clutch slave cylinder, and have rags in case of spilled fluid. Detach the two clutch slave cylinder mounting bolts and then remove the cylinder. The second step is to remove the pushrod and boot and then hit the cylinder with a block of wood to push out the spring, piston and seal. The cylinder bore should be examined closely, looking over its deep scratches, score marks and ridges; it must be smoothed over with the finger, and any defects in it marked out will necessitate a new one. The rebuild kit is used with the new parts to assemble the components, with brake fluid which lubricates the parts, but the lip on the piston cup must be towards the piston. Install the clutch slave cylinder on the clutch housing ensuring that the pushrod is placed in the release fork pocket. Re-connect the hydraulic line and screw the fittings firmly. Bleed the system and fill the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid that meets the specifications of DOT 3.