To check the operation of the brake pedal press the brake pedal a few times when the engine is off so that no decrease of the distance between the pedal and the frame occurs, then start the engine, in case of the slight movement of the pedal, everything is fine. To check the airtightness, turn on the engine and shut off after one or two minutes, press the brake pedal a number of times loosely, the more the pedal sinks at the first attempt the higher is the probability of the booster being airtight. With the engine running, press the brake pedal and remove the engine with the pedal pressed; in case there is no change in the pedal reserve travel after 30 seconds with the pedal held down, the booster is airtight. Improved tools are needed to dismantle the power unit and is not normally done by the home mechanic; should an issue arise, it is suggested that a new or factory rebuilt unit should be installed. Removal Components The engine cover is removable by lifting it off the mounting posts in the middle and pulling it up at each side. This follows by prying the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster and then one must carefully pull the master cylinder forward until it slides over the mounting studs, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines. In 2010 and subsequent models, cut off the brake lines at the brake pipe joint of the firewall which blocks the booster, seal each end of lines and the pipe joint to avoid contamination. First and foremost disconnect the vacuum hose to the power brake booster by pushing the tab and twisting the connection to the battery and unattaching both cables and then unscrew the battery. Take the PCM off the battery tray, and do not disconnect electrical connectors, then remove the battery tray. In the instrument panel, loosen the retaining pin and the washer, and loosen the pushrod on the top of the brake pedal. Installation Reverse the process to remove the booster by taking off the four nuts holding the booster to the firewall, and then carefully raise the booster unit out of the engine compartment. To fit, insert the booster into place and screw the retaining nuts to the recommended torque and join the pushrod to the brake pedal. In case the gasket of the booster-to-firewall is damaged, a new gasket would have to be used. Install the master cylinder and reconnect the brake lines in case they had been removed, and reconnect the vacuum hose. Fill the master cylinder reservoir up with fluid and bleed the master cylinder and the brake system. Lastly, check the functionality of the braking system then subject the vehicle to regular use.