Revising the crankshaft is only possible once the engine has been removed out of the vehicle, provided that other components like the flywheel, crankshaft pulley, timing chain, oil pan, oil pump body, oil filter and
Piston/connecting rod assemblies have been removed. Measure the crankshaft endplay, with a dial indicator, at the crankshaft prior to capillary removal. Crankshaft The crankshaft should be pried to the rear and zero the indicator then pried to the front to verify the reading, a normal endplay should be between 0.003 and 0.010 inch. In the event that a dial indicator is not available, a clearance can be established using feeler gauges. Unscrew the main bearing cap bolts one by one and then remove main bearing cap support beam or lower cylinder block accordingly. Lift the crankshaft (preferably with some help) out very cautiously and re-fit the main bearing caps or lower cylinder block finger-tight. To install it, the engine block and crankshaft should be clean and checked. Place the engine block on its back, take off all support beams or caps and oil the surfaces of the bearings. Install new upper main bearing inserts in the engine block making sure that oil holes correspond and lay the inserts in the lower inserts in the caps or lower block. Clearance check Check clearance with Plastigage, but do not disturb it during installation. When all the bolts have been tightened in the appropriate order, compare the Plastigage width to clearance. Insert bearing inserts of the right size where needed. Clean any Plastigage coating on the journals and fit faces; finally lay on a thin coat of grease or assembly lube to the bearing surfaces. Install the crankshaft making sure it is clean and apply RTV sealant where needed prior to fitting the lower block. Install all bolts to the required level, re-examine crankshaft endplay, and turn the crankshaft over to ensure no binding. Lastly, a new rear main oil seal should be installed.