Inspect the flexible hoses between the steel brake lines and front and rear brake assemblies after every six months, with the vehicle upraised, and placed on jackstands, checking them against cracks, abrasion, leaks, blisters, and other damage as these are vital components of the braking system. Comprehensive inspection needs a light and mirror, and any hose is faulty ought to be substituted by a new one. Clean the hose ends by washing, then remove the brake hose of the brake line with a flare nut wrench to screw out the metal tube nut, also remove the U-clip on the female connector, and unscrew the hose by removing it off the bracket. In case of rear hose, remove sealing washers during replacement on certain models. Install the new sealing washers, joining the new brake hose to the caliper or the
Wheel Cylinder and tighten the fitting bolt to the banjo to the recommended torque. In other models, screw the hose fitting in the caliper body securely. In reconnection of the brake hose to the metal line, it is important to be careful not to twist the hose, screw the tube nut fitting firmly, and replace the U-clip on the frame bracket. In more current front hose, attach to the strut bracket and screw the bolt. Assure that the suspension or steering parts do not rub against the hose and put a test on the hose checking that the assistant pushes the vehicle down and turns the steering wheel as part of the test so the vehicle weight is on the suspension. Then, examine the master cylinder fluid level, and fill-up the fluid where necessary, and bleed the brakes and then test the brakes thoroughly. Replacement of brake lines should involve the proper parts and not copper tubing and should be bought in steel brake lines by a dealer or auto parts store. Ready-made brake lines, which come with flared ends and pre-installed fittings are available and can be bent to the required shapes with a tubing bender and are well supported by brackets to make sure they are out of the way of moving or hot parts.