How can the crankshaft be removed and installed on Mazda 3?

Crankshaft removal only becomes possible after extracting the engine out of the vehicle, assuming that the flywheel, crankshaft pulley, timing belt, oil pan, oil pump body, oil filter and piston/connecting rod assemblies have been removed. Measuring Before the endplay of the crankshaft is measured with a dial indicator positioned on the crankshaft. Crankshaft The crankshaft must be pried to the rear, then to the front, and the indicator should be proven to be between 0.003 and 0.010 inch (0.076 to 0.254 mm) zero. In the absence of a dial indicator, it is possible to use feeler gauges to measure clearance. Slacken the main bearing cap assembly bolts slowly, and by tapping the cap off, and by lifting the crankshaft out of the engine (preferably with help) gradually. To install, make sure that the engine block and the crankshaft are clean and checked. Place the block in an upside-down position and strip off the support beams and cap and lubricate the bearing surfaces. Install new upper main bearing inserts in the saddles, making sure that the oil holes are lined up, and install lower inserts in the caps. Wipe the crankshaft journals and wipe the oil holes. Install the crankshaft then verify the main bearing oil clearance with Plastigage; make sure it is not outside specification limits. In case of need, change bearing inserts to the right size. Once the Plastigage has been removed, grease or assembly lube on the bearing surfaces and thrust faces then re-mount the crankshaft and bearing cap assembly, tightening the bolts to the proper order. Test crankshaft endplay again and make sure that the rotation is smooth and with minimum torque. Lastly, replace rear main oil seal.

Genuine Mazda 3 Crankshaft

Crank Shaft

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7 Crankshafts found

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Mazda 3 Crankshaft Part Number: L591-11-300
$650.42 MSRP: $888.73
You Save: $238.31 (27%)
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Product Specifications
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2010-2013 Mazda 3 | S | 4 Cyl 2.5 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Crankshaft Part Number: LF02-11-301
$999.00 MSRP: $1365.03
You Save: $366.03 (27%)
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Product Specifications
- Replaces: LF01-11-301A, LF01-11-301
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2004-2013 Mazda 3 | i | 4 Cyl 2.0 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Crankshaft Part Number: PY8W-11-300
$1171.46 MSRP: $1600.67
You Save: $429.21 (27%)
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Product Specifications
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2021-2023 Mazda 3 | 2.5 Turbo, 2.5 Turbo Premium Plus | 4 Cyl 2.5 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Crankshaft Part Number: L3K9-11-300A
$1171.72 MSRP: $1601.04
You Save: $429.32 (27%)
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Product Specifications
- Replaces: L3K9-11-300
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2007-2013 Mazda 3 | Mazdaspeed | 4 Cyl 2.3 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Crankshaft Part Number: PEDD-11-300
$389.17 MSRP: $523.20
You Save: $134.03 (26%)
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Product Specifications
- Replaces: PE02-11-300A
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2022, 2012-2018 Mazda 3 | 2.0, i, i Grand Touring, I Sport, i SV, I Touring, Sport, Touring | 4 Cyl 2.0 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Crankshaft Part Number: PE01-11-300A
$548.37 MSRP: $737.20
You Save: $188.83 (26%)
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Product Specifications
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2012 Mazda 3 | i | 4 Cyl 2.0 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Crankshaft Part Number: L320-11-300
$213.92 MSRP: $280.79
You Save: $66.87 (24%)
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Product Specifications
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2007-2009 Mazda 3 | Mazdaspeed | 4 Cyl 2.3 L GAS

Mazda 3 Crankshaft

The Mazda 3 Crankshaft is the durable steel backbone that converts the up-down hits of the pistons into consistent spinning energy for the transmission and wheels. This precision shaft is located deep in the engine block, with offset crank throws to which the connecting rods are attached, and thus every stroke of a cylinder is a rotation that ultimately drives the Mazda forward. There have been two predominant material designs in the history of the small Mazda line, cost-effective cast-iron designs which were appropriate for the lower output models and heavier forged steel designs which were designed to handle the increased horsepower load. The fundamental distinction is strength and ductility, where forging provides a harder grain structure and more resistance to bending or cracking when spirited driving occurs. No matter what type, all Crankshafts roll on polished journals which must remain in a state of clean oil, as the presence of grit or a decrease in the flow will score the surfaces, creating wider clearances and the much-dreaded knocking vibration that a driver may experience even at idle speed. Proper lubrication ensures that the Crankshaft lasts longer than the car, but neglect or wandering debris can require replacement, which is a labor-intensive task that necessitates removing the whole engine, lifting the damaged Crankshaft free, placing a new one, aligning fresh bearings and torquing caps in series, and this can take only about 3 hours for an experienced do-it-yourselfer. Due to the strong metallurgy and careful design, it is the unsung hero that grants reliability and buttery rotation to the Mazda engine.

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Mazda 3 Crankshaft Parts and Q&A

Crankshaft
L3K9-11-300A
Q: How can the crankshaft be removed and installed on Mazda 3?
A:
Crankshaft removal only becomes possible after extracting the engine out of the vehicle, assuming that the flywheel, crankshaft pulley, timing belt, oil pan, oil pump body, oil filter and piston/connecting rod assemblies have been removed. Measuring Before the endplay of the crankshaft is measured with a dial indicator positioned on the crankshaft. Crankshaft The crankshaft must be pried to the rear, then to the front, and the indicator should be proven to be between 0.003 and 0.010 inch (0.076 to 0.254 mm) zero. In the absence of a dial indicator, it is possible to use feeler gauges to measure clearance. Slacken the main bearing cap assembly bolts slowly, and by tapping the cap off, and by lifting the crankshaft out of the engine (preferably with help) gradually. To install, make sure that the engine block and the crankshaft are clean and checked. Place the block in an upside-down position and strip off the support beams and cap and lubricate the bearing surfaces. Install new upper main bearing inserts in the saddles, making sure that the oil holes are lined up, and install lower inserts in the caps. Wipe the crankshaft journals and wipe the oil holes. Install the crankshaft then verify the main bearing oil clearance with Plastigage; make sure it is not outside specification limits. In case of need, change bearing inserts to the right size. Once the Plastigage has been removed, grease or assembly lube on the bearing surfaces and thrust faces then re-mount the crankshaft and bearing cap assembly, tightening the bolts to the proper order. Test crankshaft endplay again and make sure that the rotation is smooth and with minimum torque. Lastly, replace rear main oil seal.