How to remove the upper engine cover and cylinder head on Mazda 3?

To take off the upper engine cover, make it rise on both sides and pull it off the mounting posts on the center. Turn off the fuel pressure, dismount the battery cover and de-attach the cable to the negative battery of the battery. Second, remove the air filter housing and intake duct with alternator and air duct (equipped) on it. Empty the cooling system and drop the coolant recovery tank. Proceed to take away the timing chain and disconnect the Camshaft Position sensor. Unscrew electrical connector, unbolt and take off the OCV oil control valve in the cylinder head. Take the camshafts out, remember to check the valve clearances prior to dismantling to place orders on the new lifters needed. The fuel rail and injectors should be removed along with the thermostat housing of the cylinder head. Unscrew the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold. In case an engine support hoist or fixtures are in the way of removing the cylinder head, the block of wood and floor jack will be used to hold the engine at the bottom. Slacken the ten cylinder head bolts one half-turn at a time in rather reverse order of the tightening sequence and remove the cylinder head out of the engine compartment. When the head is stuck, then be careful when loosening it, since it is aluminum alloy and therefore can be easily broken. There should never be any prying between surfaces of mating so that the sealing surfaces of the gasket are not damaged. Alternatively, attempt to rock the head to come off the seal without damaging other components around. Once the head has been removed, dispose of the gasket and look to locate dowels in the cylinder block and cylinder head, making sure that they are replaced to their initial positions once they are cleaned.

Genuine Mazda 3 Cylinder Head

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6 Cylinder Heads found

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Mazda 3 Cylinder Head Part Number: L504-10-090
$954.53 MSRP: $1304.25
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Product Specifications
- Other Name: Cylinder Head, Complete
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2010-2013 Mazda 3 | S | 4 Cyl 2.5 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Cylinder Head Part Number: PEKC-10-100
$1060.56 MSRP: $1449.14
You Save: $388.58 (27%)
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Product Specifications
- Other Name: Head, Cylinder
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2015-2018 Mazda 3 | i Grand Touring, I Sport, i SV, I Touring, Sport, Touring | 4 Cyl 2.0 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Cylinder Head Part Number: PYFA-10-100E
$1160.35 MSRP: $1585.50
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Product Specifications
- Other Name: Cylinder Head
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2019 Mazda 3 | Base | 4 Cyl 2.5 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Cylinder Head Part Number: L3N5-10-090L
$1225.43 MSRP: $1674.41
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Product Specifications
- Other Name: Head, Cylinder
- Replaces: L3N5-10-090F, L3G6-10-090H, L3N5-10-090K, L3N5-10-090G, L3N5-10-090H
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2006-2013 Mazda 3 | i, Mazdaspeed | 4 Cyl 2.0 L GAS, 4 Cyl 2.3 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Cylinder Head Part Number: L3K9-10-090G
$1506.98 MSRP: $2059.13
You Save: $552.15 (27%)
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Product Specifications
- Other Name: Head, Cylinder
- Replaces: L3K9-10-090C, L3K9-10-090F, L3K9-10-090A
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2007-2013 Mazda 3 | Mazdaspeed | 4 Cyl 2.3 L GAS
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Mazda 3 Cylinder Head Part Number: PEDD-10-100
Product Specifications
- Other Name: Head, Cylinder
- Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Mazda's factory warranty.
Fits the following Vehicles:
- 2014 Mazda 3 | i Grand Touring, I Sport, i SV, I Touring | 4 Cyl 2.0 L GAS

Mazda 3 Cylinder Head

The Mazda 3 Cylinder Head constitutes the covered roof of every cylinder, where the air and fuel charge are directed, containing the spark plugs and allowing the spent gas to escape and the engine to breathe and provide a dependable force. This Cylinder Head is mounted on top of the block, and it holds valves, intake and exhaust passages, coolant galleries and, in some cases, fuel injectors, all designed to reduce restriction and increase horsepower. There are two primary structures that are present in Mazda models, and these are heavy cast iron and lightweight aluminum. Aluminum units reduce mass to boost the power-to-weight ratio, dissipate heat faster and can sustain a slightly higher compression ratio, but cast iron types are more robust and heavier. The critical zones located in any design are reinforced in a manner that allows its ports to be recast to allow more flow without piercing the water jackets. To maintain the Mazda 3 Cylinder Head firmly in place within the block, Mazda has a Torque-to-Yield bolt which stretches to a precalculated limit so that the clamping pressure is evenly distributed and the head gasket remains free of leaks. Failure of the gasket may cause misfires, overheating, or an unhealthy mixture of oil and coolant. Worn guides, valves, seats, springs, cracks and warpage that steal compression are some other common troubles.

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Mazda 3 Cylinder Head Parts and Q&A

Cylinder Head
L3K9-10-090G
Q: How to remove the upper engine cover and cylinder head on Mazda 3?
A:
To take off the upper engine cover, make it rise on both sides and pull it off the mounting posts on the center. Turn off the fuel pressure, dismount the battery cover and de-attach the cable to the negative battery of the battery. Second, remove the air filter housing and intake duct with alternator and air duct (equipped) on it. Empty the cooling system and drop the coolant recovery tank. Proceed to take away the Timing Chain and disconnect the Camshaft Position sensor. Unscrew electrical connector, unbolt and take off the OCV oil control valve in the cylinder head. Take the camshafts out, remember to check the valve clearances prior to dismantling to place orders on the new lifters needed. The fuel rail and injectors should be removed along with the thermostat housing of the cylinder head. Unscrew the Intake Manifold and the Exhaust Manifold. In case an engine support hoist or fixtures are in the way of removing the cylinder head, the block of wood and floor jack will be used to hold the engine at the bottom. Slacken the ten cylinder head bolts one half-turn at a time in rather reverse order of the tightening sequence and remove the cylinder head out of the engine compartment. When the head is stuck, then be careful when loosening it, since it is aluminum alloy and therefore can be easily broken. There should never be any prying between surfaces of mating so that the sealing surfaces of the gasket are not damaged. Alternatively, attempt to rock the head to come off the seal without damaging other components around. Once the head has been removed, dispose of the gasket and look to locate dowels in the cylinder block and cylinder head, making sure that they are replaced to their initial positions once they are cleaned.