Unscrew the lug nuts of the wheel, lift it up and hold it firmly in jackstands after which you remove the wheel(s). Unscrew the
Brake Caliper and pull the
Brake Pads out, but leave the brake hose connected to the caliper and hang the caliper away out of the way using a piece of wire, take care that the caliper does not hang by the hose or get stretched or twisted. A vehicle should not be placed in normal service before the brakes have been checked carefully. Look with naked eye at the rotor surface to identify score marks and damage, though small scratches and shallow grooves are normal, deep score marks exceeding 0.015-inch must be removed and refinished. Inspection Check both sides of the rotor, and in case it pulsates during braking, suspect rotor runout and examine the wheel bearings as being worn. To verify runout of the rotor, a dial indicator used, approximately 1/2-inch in position on the outer diameter of the rotor, zeroed, and the rotor turned; when the indication gets beyond the stop limit, the rotor needs to be machined or replaced. Brake Rotors should be resurfaced to remove brake pedal pulsation and otherwise, brod off the glazing of the brake rotor with swirling motion of sandpaper or emery cloth. Make sure that the rotor is not machined any thinner than the lowest possible thickness, which is cast into the central part of the rotor, and determine the thickness using a micrometer at a number of points close to the edge. Unbolt the front brake caliper mount on the steering knuckle, unscrew the retaining screws and unscrew the rotor which is a tight fit perhaps requiring an impact screwdriver. Installation: The opposite of removal is tightening the caliper mount bolts and caliper lock bolts to the required torque and also the wheel lug nuts. Press the brake pedal several times to close the brakes pads on the rotor, and test the brakes and ensure they are functioning properly before putting the vehicle into regular use.