To all engines described, the head bolts are not reusable, a new set of head bolts must be purchased. Label all the electrical and hose connections that will be disconnected. To take off the cylinder head of 2008 and the older 2.0L and 2.3L models, release the fuel pressure, disconnect the battery cable on the negative post, take off the intake duct of the air filter housing, disconnect the accelerator and cruise control wires when fitted, empty the cooling system, take off the
Timing Belt or chain, and
Camshafts. Installation of the valve cover to cover the top of the engine temporarily, unplug the camshaft position sensor and unplug the fuel rail and injectors in one piece. In models 2004 and older, take out the alternator and a mounting bracket, the thermostat housing, the
Intake Manifold, the dipstick tube, the exhaust manifold, and the support bracket of the power steering hose (where installed). When a hoist or an engine support fixture has been used, before removing the hoist, it is a good idea to reattach the
Engine Mount bracket and engine mount. Disassemble the power steering pump mounting bracket, valve shims, making sure to label them to be reassembled. In 1.5L, 1.6L, 2013 and subsequent 2.0L and 2009 and subsequent 2.5L models, release the pressure in the fuel system, unplug the negative battery terminal, elevate the vehicle safely on jackstands and drain the cooling system. Install a jack under the engine
Oil Pan but pad it with a block of wood so as not to damage it, then take out the front mount, variable camshaft timing solenoid(s), timing belt or chain, and camshaft alignment plate, labeling each of the camshafts and the bearing caps to be replaced later. Take out the valve shims, fuel rail, intake manifold, alternator, and the exhaust manifold or the turbocharger, disconnecting the various coolant hoses on the cylinder head and outlet. The installation will require the replacement of the head bolts with new ones. Progressively loosen the ten cylinder head bolts, raise the cylinder head out of the engine compartment and be careful not to break the aluminum alloy. Clean the mating faces of the cylinder block and head making sure that no carbon gets in the oil and water passages. Inspect mating surfaces to confirm that there are no nicks or scratches on it and in case of nonconformity, refer to an automotive machine shop. Wipe mating surfaces and be sure the locating dowels are positioned and the bolt holes are oily or not. Place a fresh gasket on top of the dowels, with the TOP mark at the top and temporarily screw in the crankshaft pulley to prevent the valves/piston-contact during reassembly. Install guide studs to help in the installation of the cylinder head, install NEW head bolts and then lubricate the threads using light oil and then tighten them gradually to the desired torque levels. In 2004 and earlier 2.0L engines the tightening sequence is as specified with the 1.5L, 1.6L, 2013 and later 2.0L, 2.3L and 2.5L performance adhering to the five tightening stages with the last two using the angle torque procedure. Install the parts sequentially in reverse order of removal, with new gaskets, and verify that the engine has leaks, now that it is running. Once the battery is reconnected, the Powertrain Control Unit needs to re-learn its idle and fuel trim strategy to maximize its performance again.